tributesinwood

Wood Carvings by Mark Sheridan

Archive for the tag “Basset Hound Carving”

Gluing the Arms on Buford

I don’t have a lot to report on Buford’s progress other than that I’ve fitted both arms, now with gloves, and have epoxied the arms in place.  Recall that I had already done a lot of fitting of the arms by using the method of marking the mating surfaces with pencil lead and carving away the high points.  I also made sure that all of the wrinkles that were to go into the sleeves were there prior to gluing the arms in place so that I wouldn’t be trying to carve into tight spots.

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This week I’ll get to sawing out the ears and shaping them around the arms.  My plan is to have the one ear go over Buford’s right arm and fall inside the holster so that the six-shooter doesn’t get hidden in any way.  Should look nice.

Ivory Handled Six-Shooter

I couldn’t resist getting started on the Ranch-Hand’s six gun.  Looks like it’s going to be highly polished with an ivory handle.

I started in my normal fashion with carving half of the gun that will fit into the cavity that I carved in the holster.  The barrel of the gun is the second half of the six-shooter and will be glued in the cavity at the bottom of the holster.

Once I carved the basic gun, I used a small gouge to carve a few channels in the cylinder like you’d see on the real McCoy.  I then turned to the little aluminum duct tape trick and began burnishing this adhesive backed tape directly onto the carved wood.  Again, when I say burnishing, what I mean is that this aluminum tape is flexible enough that you can take a smooth tool and press it around mild angles.  With a light rubbing action, any wrinkles or seams in the tape pretty much disappear.

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In the holster, the six-shooter is going to look pretty good with an ivory handle and a light coating of blue/grey over the aluminum tape to give it a gun metal look.  By the way, Emily is home now and those are her hands modelling the carving.  She likes Buford, too.

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The final touch is the hammer and the trigger.  Both were made from copper…the trigger and trigger guard from flat stock and the hammer from household copper wire bent into a rough shape and then soldered and filed to the final shape.  The barrel was made from two sizes of tubing that were wrapped with the aluminum tape and epoxied together.

I’m pretty happy with the way that it’s turned out so far.

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Change is Good

Well I changed my mind a bit on the look of old Buford the Ranch-hand.  The detail of his pants, and in particular his boots, had me rethink how his front paws should look.  He just seemed to need leather gloves.  So I cut away the little rounded paws that I had originally intended and have roughed in some leather gloves.  I can picture them being a soiled tan look.  Truth is that his big ears will soon drape over his arms and a bit of the gloves anyway…but I’m enjoying the carving and we all will know that if we look hard at the carving and at the right angles, we’ll see some interesting detail in behind those ears.

I drew a quick pattern on a piece of scrap basswood making sure that the grain of the wood ran in the direction of the glove so that it would have good strength from breakage.  Of course, there was a top view pattern and a side view pattern so two cuts were necessary on the bandsaw at a 90 degree angle to one another.

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I left the last cut at the cuff end of the glove until the last moment so that I could use the remaining wood as a bit of a “handle” to hold onto while I did the carving.  I then turned to the Foredom tool with a Typhoon bit on the end to rough away the majority of the wood and get the basic shape that I was looking to get.  I’ve harped enough about ensuring that you use lots of protective equipment when using these very aggressive Typhoon bits…even at slow speeds it’ll make a mess of your finger or arm if you inadvertently touch against it.  Respect these carbide bits.

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The final rough version of the gloves and arms with some knife carving and fitting is looking pretty good.  I need to add detail to the gloved fingers and refine the arms a bit more before I start fitting on the ears.  But, I think that as a next step I’ll carve that six-shooter and holster of his just because it’ll be fun.

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It’s the beginning of March Break here and I know that Emily will be visiting next week for a few days.  She’s been doing some crocheting recently so check out her mspremiseconclusion blog listed at the side of this website for her latest pattern designs.  Her creations are a bit out of the ordinary…keep in mind the geeky engineering background.

Some Detail for the Cowboy Hound

I spent a bit of time on the Cowboy Hound tonight and was able to provide a bit more detail around his legs and body.

I slimmed down the legs quite a bit with some wrinkles here and there where his knee would bend.  I also added a bit of detail to his neckerchief although I want to slim it down a bit more before I’m finished.  His gun belt overlaps his belt for his pants and you can see a bit of this on the back of the carving.  I also removed quite a bit of bulk from his upper back so that his elbows appear to stretch back further.  This will be important when I make the upper rail of the fence that he’ll be leaning against.

Speaking of the arms, I just have the one arm with any amount of detail at this point.  Right now they are only attached by a dowel and some glue from a glue gun.  I’ll detail both in a bit more and then permanently glue them in place for some final fitting and detailing.

When I was in Hamilton at the carving show, I took a close look at some of the scenes that people had constructed from copper shim stock ( very thin copper sheets ) to make blades of grass and leaves as part of the bases on which their carvings sat.  I think I’ll try this with this little Hound and have some blades of grass shooting up beside the fence posts.

He’s coming along.

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Attaching the Arms

I drew up a bit of a pattern for this carving when I began that I’ve used for guidance and included in it a front and side view of where I felt the arms would land.  Remember, this little guy is going to be leaning against a fence and will need his arms, or at least his elbows, projected up and back a bit to rest against the top fence rail.

Although I had the rough pattern, I still needed to do a bit of experimenting to get the arm lengths and angles right.  I ended up taking some wooden coffee stir sticks that I had in the shop ( you see…it’s worthwhile to recycle! ) and pinning the joints with a sliver of wood to see exactly how the centre-line of the arm would fall.

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This whole exercise took me back 35 or so years to my engineering schooling…we used to have to draw the actual size and orientation of a linkage or mechanism just based on a front and side view.  This method was called “Finding the True Length” and used draughting methods to achieve this.  Some of you older engineering types out there will be showing your age if you admit to remembering this!  My stir stick method wouldn’t be viewed as good engineering practice, but it worked for me!

After I glued the pinned stir sticks together, I re-drew both the side and front views of the arm to get close to the right size that I needed.  Then I headed to the bandsaw.

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Here’s how it looked with the initial bandsaw cuts and how it looks now with a first pass at providing some fitting and detailing. Check back in a couple of days and I should have the other arm completed.

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And the Snow Keeps Coming…

Well, this is definitely February in Ontario.  Rosie enjoys it, though, and I have a good reason to stay in and carve.  I actually had to cut a little path in the snow so that Rosie could get outside without tunnelling!

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Our little Wrangler is coming along with some additional roughing in of what will become some nice detail…his boots, the start of a gun belt and additional belt for his pants, his vest, shirt and neckerchief.  He has that slightly leaning back posture that I’ll accentuate by slimming down the carving here and there.

I think I’ll rough in those arms now before going any further with the body so that I can get a good feel for how he’ll look leaning against that fence post.

Oh, and we’ve decided that we’re calling this Wrangler, Buford.  Not sure why.

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Back to the Snow

Well, we enjoyed a bit of sun this past week at DisneyWorld and saw all the characters, rode many of the rides, sat on the grass and soaked up some sun…then, returned to lots of cold and snow.  Oh well, it was nice while it lasted.

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Although I haven’t had a chance to return to carving since we’ve been home, I’ll include a little picture of how my cowboy hound is coming along.  I’ve roughed in the body and done a bit of detailing on the legs just to get a sense for the stance of this little guy.  Later this week I’d like to rough in a couple of arms and then start some detailing on the body.  I’m starting to picture this weathered ranch-hand taking a break from the work of the day.

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A Pretty Serious Wrangler

I’m having some fun with this little hound.  He’s turning out to be a pretty serious looking wrangler…someone’s who has seen his share of cow thieves.

With one eyebrow raised higher than the other in a suspicious gesture, eyes rolled off to one side looking for banditos and a thinner, more weather worn, face than I’ve carved for Bassets…he’s clearly a working, and hard working, dawg.

Oh…did I mention the droopy smoke hanging out of his mouth?  This carving is going to make a nice scene.

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The Cowboy Hat

Now that the head is at least roughed in for our little cowboy hound, it’s time to start thinking about a hat.  The hat is made in two pieces along the same lines as described by Lynn Doughty on his website OutWestWoodcarving.  Basically, the side view of the brim was outlined on a piece of basswood with the grain of the wood running from the front to the back of the brim.  After cutting out this profile, an elongated oval was cut ( looking from the top of the hat ) so that I ended up with the cut-out shown in the second photo, below.
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Following that, I took a little bit off of the top of the hound’s head to make a flat area to sit the hat upon.  Using the method of applying some pencil lead to the top of the head and slowly chiseling away the impression of the lead that’s left on the hat, I ended up with a depression on the bottom of the hat brim that made a nice tight fit on the head.  This might seem a bit unnecessary to you, but you’ll find that having this depression makes the hat sit nicely on the head in a way that leaves you with the impression that the hat is fully covering the head and not just sitting on top of it.

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The crown of the hat was pretty simply made…just a quick cut out of an almost rectangle on the bandsaw and then some knife carving to get the rounded shape from the top view.  I say, rounded, but it actually is round with a bit of a point at the front.  That just seemed to look about right to me.  Then, I just used the same method of applying pencil lead to the brim and let it rub off onto the bottom of the crown so that all of the high points were highlighted by the lead markings.  A few ( actually, quite a few ) swipes with a shallow gouge removed those lead marks and ended up with the crown sitting nicely on the brim.  I should also mention that I added a hat band using a carving knife and a quick pass with a burning tool.

Hope you like things so far.

 

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Roughing in the Head

The Wrangler Hound is starting to take some shape.  The general outline of his head was marked out on a piece of basswood and cut away on the bandsaw.  I intentionally cut the outline a little bit larger than I expect the carving to be when it’s completely so that I have room to cut in some deep wrinkles and folds that these little Basset Hound carvings end up having.

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I started off using a Typhoon bit and the Foredom tool to move some wood away quickly and do some general shaping.  I’ve mentioned before that Typhoon bits are very aggressive carbide tipped bits.  If you decide to use this method of blocking in your carving, you need to wear the appropriate protective gear…safety glasses, gloves, leather apron and either leather or very heavy sleeves.  Of course, you can use your regular knife to accomplish the same thing.

The roughed-in surface after the shaping with the Foredom tool and a bit of refining with a carving knife is looking like this.  Next step will be to cut a flat section along the top of the head and add in a weathered, droopy, cowboy hat.

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